Kerry O'Brine Womens Wear

Behind the seams


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The Shoe Nightmare – and other diary items!

In the studio:

Things are starting to happen. Some decisions have been made about the new accessories – looking forward to the bits and pieces arriving so we can get cracking on painting and finishing those.

I’m on the verge of ordering some of the fabrics for the new pieces. Excited about the rich colours I’m going for and it’s lovely receiving new fabrics in the post!

In November I have a show booked which is almost immediately after my wedding so everything has to be done prior to the wedding. A little stressful!! All prep such as the show layout, packaging and admin needs to be completed before I get married. I don’t want anything playing on my mind.instagram latest

I’m doing regular updates as and when things happen in the studio on instagram. Some fashion, some flowers and anything else that takes my fancy. But mostly it seems to theme as, fashion, flowers and food!!

Head over follow me on instagram if you want to see sketches, colours and studio happenings!

 

Update on the wedding:

Planning the wedding has been going ok. We had a slow start with me doing most of the major research. But more recently things have got on a roll.

One minor thing which has turned into one giant pain in the ******, is my shoes. Yes yes there are bridal shoes out there. But seriously, even with all the lovely new designers out there, nothing is right. Everything has gone super vintage – not right for my dress. High end and high street designers all have heels that are crazy high. I need a classic heel that is wearable all day.

I’m also determined not to have a pair of Ivory/white satin shoes that I know I will never wear again or ever dye (dying shoes or anything in fashion is not very acurate and sometimes highly unsuccessful).

So I’ve tried a lot of shoes on with the dress. Some lovely gold ones, some great beige ones and various others. Nothing is quite right.

Ahhh!! My dress is too white-ivory for cream, beige, or gold. The length is going to be long but the shoes will peak out the front. I’m thinking of going with black, sparkley silvery or red/pink tones.

Is it just me!!?

Side note…. If you are looking for some nice party shoes there are a lot around at the moment….. I’m loving all the gold sparkley ones.

The shoe solution? (hopefully)

So in the end I decided to get some made. I booked an appointment at the Upper Street shoe lounge. On Monday last week mum and I went with my wedding dress to my appointment.

The shoe lounge is a lovely space to try shoes on in. First you have a chat about what you’re thinking style wise and the heel height. Then they get some samples out to try on for size and heel height and shape. They offer different shoe size options. My feet are a size 4 in length but a size 5 in width at the front. It is always tricky finding shoes for my feet.

Once you have decided the shoe style you want, then they get all the colour samples out. Because there are so many options, it is helpful to have some vague notion of what you want i.e. green tones or red tones.

I made a decision and then we looked at different details which really made the shoes even more special.

So I ordered the shoes and now I’m waiting, eagerly waiting…. COME ON SHOESSSSSS! It’s a 3-4 week wait.

I’m down to 3 weeks…….

The shoes are not cheap, but if you want shoes that fit and you can’t find what you want in the shops, this is a great alternative. (you can order them online aswell) I will let you know how they turn out!

 


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Colour placement in fashion outfits

When designing a piece of clothing a designer must considor it as part of an outfit. This outfit has to look visually ‘right’. Making an outfit look ‘right’ usually includes balance and points of focus. In my previous blog post I discussed the length of sleeves and balancing out the body. I’m going to look here at how colour placement can influence the eye.

Visual balance in art and design can often be achieved by using odd numbers.

In art there is the visual triangle where objects or people are arranged to create an invisible triangle shape. There is also the use of placing 3 areas of the same colour to draw the eye through the painting. Take a look at the painting below – the blue pulls your eyes accross the painting and the balance of 3 blue areas is visually harmonious. There is almost an invisible triangle joining the three blue areas.

space composition II

This principle is also applied in graphic design, interiors and fashion.

Look closely at this lovely interior created by firm Gauthier Stacy
You can see the candle sticks are grouped in 3:

Rule of 3 in interiors

Rule of 3 in interiors

This is an example in fashion of a way of creating a visual triangle and pulling the eye through an outfit with 3 points of colour. Ralph Lauren uses orange sandals, a handbag and a jacket to create this grouping. You could use a belt, bag and shoes to create a grouping of 3 colour points or perhaps a necklace, jacket and belt.

Ralph Lauren S/S 2015 collection

Ralph Lauren S/S 2015 collection

It can often be a placement of one that is the odd number. It can be a piece that creates a focal point – pulling the viewer to a point you want them to look at or just adding a pop of interest/colour.

Yellow shoes add a light hearted pop of colour to this outfit at Balmain S/S 15

Yellow shoes add a light hearted pop of colour to this outfit at Balmain S/S 15

David Koma

David Koma has drawn your eye to the waist with a yellow waistband in s/s 15 collection. You can do this with a belt


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Playing with proportion

Balance and proportion in an outfit are important ways to trick the viewing eyes into seeing your body in a different way.

The eye naturally finds a balanced body or face shape more appealing. The goal with many styling exercises is creating an hour glass figure i.e. large top balanced by a large bottom and skinny in the middle.

I don’t agree that we should all dress to create this particular shape. But it does provide a good example of a balanced body shape. By putting a belt on your waist you can evenly divide your body – The eyes will find this a good marker.

Balmain wide black belts to define the models waist S/S 15

In Balmain wide black belts were used to define the models waist in the S/S 15 collection

This does not work, however if you have a short torso. Short torsos have a high waistline or no waistline – so a belt will not divide you evenly in the middle and will only emphasise your short body.

Ladies with long bodies and shorter legs can lengthen their bottom half by raising the waistline up. Take a look at the following designs from Alberta Ferretti.

Higher waistline at Alberta Ferretti S/S 15

Higher waistline at Alberta Ferretti S/S 15

The top of the skirt line is higher than elbow height and shortens the body length: making the models legs and lower torso look longer.

Outfits 1 and 2 are similar – A-line floaty top and wide floaty trousers. However, there are key differences that make each outfit better suited to different body shapes.

Outfit 1. The top is longer (to wrist level) and floats over the trousers. This is good for ladies with a short torso as it is elongating the torso. The all white colour scheme adds to this lengthing.

Proportion all white outfit S/S 2015 Carolina Herrera

Outfit 1 from Carolina Herrera Spring Summer 2015 collection

The longer top length can take the lower v-neckline. This is a better shape for larger busts.

proportion Carolina Herrera S/S 2015

Outfit 2 from Carolina Herrera Spring Summer 2015 collection

Outfit 2. The shorter red top hits about waist height and is balanced with a large bold print on the bottom half. This is great if you want focus on your waist as the red top draws the eye there. If the top was patterned like the trousers, a red belt in the middle would nicely define the waist so you have a figure instead of being a mass of pattern. The high neckline balances out the shorter length of the top. This high neckline and short length would not be very flattering on larger busted ladies: the A-line shape would sit like a tent from your bust.

Outfit 3. The trousers in this outfit taper down to the ankles. The shape of the trousers is very flattering  – loose and skimming on the thighs and narrow at the slimmest part, focusing your eyes on the ankles.

Outfit 3. from Sonia Rykiel Spring Summer 2015 collection

Outfit 3. from Sonia Rykiel Spring Summer 2015 collection

The soft lines of the lemon jacket below in example 1 from Carolina Herrera would soften a lady with an angular figure. The outfit proportions are balanced out i.e. the skirt is shorter than knee length and the top half is fully covered – the lemon to skin ratio is about even.
Let’s compare the sleeve length in example 1 to example 2 from Carolina Herrera’s spring summer 2015 collection. The eye is drawn to the end of the sleeve. In example two the focus is on the waist in the middle of the body. In example one the focus is dropped lower than the waist line but not as far as the hips.
White floral dress from Carolina Herrera S/S 15 collection

Sleeve focus example 2 from Carolina Herrera S/S 15 collection

Carolina Herrera S/S 15 lemon suit

Sleeve focus example 1 from Carolina Herrera S/S 15 collection


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Needing a bit of Inspiration?

Read on, there are lot of fantastic exhibitions in 2015 that should inspire you or at least stir some grey cells!

Fashion, art, textiles and clothing exhibitions

in 2015 and beyond!

(London, NYC and Paris)

(if there is a fantastic fashion or art exhibition near you then do let me know!!)

On NOW:

LONDON:

Marlene Dumas: The Image as Burden, Tate Modern, 5th February – 10th May 2015 Art

I first encountered Marlene Dumas’ work in New York at the MoMa museum. I found her work strange and beautiful, refreshing and stark, modern and classic. I had to have the book Marlene Dumas: Measuring Your Own Grave when I saw it in NYC. I am booking tickets for this exhibit in London.

Fashion Rules Exhibition – (till July 4th 2015) – Royal gowns on display at Kensington Palace

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty – The V&A (14th March – 19th July 2015) – This is a must see fashion exhibition

I loved it when I was lucky enough to see it NYC. I’m so pleased it has made it across to London where it belongs!!

get your tickets here NOW

What is luxury?  – The V&A (25th April – 27th September 2015) A variety of craft discipline from haute couture to a watchmaker. This exhibition will explore the future of luxury ask questions about its role in society.

Fashion on the Ration: 1940s street style – The Imperial War Museum, Lambeth Road, SE1 6HZ (March 5th – August 31st 2015) £10 10am till 6pm

Sargent: Portraits of Artist and Friends – National Portrait Gallery 12th Feb – 25th May

Coming Up……

 

Audrey Hepburn: Portraits of an Icon – National Portrait Gallery, (2nd July – 18th October 2015) £9

 

 

Shifting Patterns: Pacific Barkcloth Clothing – British Museum, Free

Shoes: Pleasure and Pain – V&A – (Sat June 13th to Sunday Jan 13th 2016) £12

Barbara Hepworth: Sculpture For A Modern World – Tate Britain (24th June – 25th October 2015) This is the first major exhibition in London for almost 50 years of the work by Barbara Hepworth. I love Hepworth’s work and find it to be very inspiring as a designer, especially her sculptures.

If you are ever in Cornwall, go to St Ives, her home, garden and art studio are well worth a visit.

Alexander Calder: Performing Sculpture – Tate Modern (11th Nov 2015 – 3rd April 2016)

In my eyes his work is so contemporary, it would easily fit into any modern minimalist home. Get ahead of the crowd with this book Calder (Album Series).

Liverpool

Jackson Pollock: Blind Spots – Tate Liverpool (30th June – 18th October 2015)

Piet Mondrian – Tate Liverpool (June 6th – Oct 5th 2015)

PARIS:

Jeanne Lanvin – The Palais Galliera Museum of Fashion (March 8th – August 23rd 2015)
Fashion Mix Musee de l’histoire de l’immigration (till 31st May 2015) = Palais de la porte doree

Jean Paul Gaultier (Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais (from 1st March till 3rd August 2015)

Déboutonnez La Mode(Unbuttoning Fashion!)- Les Arts Decoratifs
Doesn’t sound exciting but the pictures of some of the buttons are beautiful (12th feb – sunday 19th July 2015)

The David Bowie ExhibitPhilharmonie de Paris/ Cité de la Musique, Paris, France from 2 March to 31 May 2015

NYC:

Female, Artist, NYC, Exhibition

Frida Kahlo exhibition at The New York Botanical Gardens 2015

Friday Kahlo: Art, Garden, Life – The New York Botanical Gardens (May 16th – 1st November 2015)

Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe – The Brooklyn Museum: Robert E. Blum Gallery, 1st Floor (September 10, 2014–February 15, 2015)

China Through The Looking Glass – The Met Museum (7th May – 16th August 2015)

Exploring the Chinese influence on western fashions. The exhibition will juxtopose high fashion with Chinese objects.

Sadly I will miss this one, I do with the big fashion exhibitions would go on for a bit longer. 4 months is not long at all and I think fashion exhibitions are a big draw for those going to the visit the museums.

and whilst you are there (because the entry fee to the museum includes everything) go and see;

Van Gogh: Irises and Roses paintings May 12 – August 16th 2015

and

Sargent: Portraits of Artists and friends June 30th – October 4th  2015

One of my favorite galleries in NYC is the Neue Galerie. They still have the  Woman in Gold exhibition on untill 7th September 2015

Fashioning the body: An Intimate History of the Silhouette  – The Bard Graduate Center Gallery (untill 26th July 2015)

I saw this in Paris at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs. The Curator Denis Bruna has brought it NYC and it illustrates the way humans have changed and sculpted their bodies throughout time

Ralph Pucci, The Art of the MannequinMAD Museum (Till 30th August) Exploring the work of Ralph Pucci.

Alice: 150 years of Wonderland – The Morgan Library and Museum (26th June – 11th October 2015)

The original manuscript travels from London to NYC for this exhibit with vintage photos, origional drawings and letters

Leighton’s Flaming June – The Frick Collection (9th June – 6th Sept 2015)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Fashion Weeks – Are they in your diary?

These are the first Fashion Weeks for 2015. You can follow the Fashion shows as they happen throughout the weeks on Vogue, style.com and lots of designers have live streaming these days.

Showing A/W 2015 Fashion:

NYC 12th – 19th February 2015

London 20th – 24th February 2015

Milan 25th February – 2nd March 2015

Paris 4th – 11th March 2015

Istanbul and Tokyo 16th – 21st March 2015

Mumbai and Shenzhen 20th – 24th March 2015

Toronto 23rd – 27th March 2015

Moscow 26th – 30th March 2015

Sydney 12th – 16th April 2015

 

Wedding board, dress, pinterest


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February For Dresses and Love

 I got engaged last year in September. It seems a while ago  and now we are trying to organise getting married for October 2015 and I need to get a dress!

As a designer I get ask if I’m going to design/make my own, the answer is no! I don’t even know what I want! I’m doing a lot of trying on dresses this month.

I do love Pinterest and I have got lots of great ideas from it. It’s a great resource!

If you are engaged or you just LOVE wedding dresses! – why not take a look at the wedding exhibitions on at the moment:

Something Blue;Wedding Fashions 1914-2014 (1st Aug 2014 – 15th March 2015) the Gallery of costume, Platt Hall. Manchester

Wedding Dress 1755-2014(3rd May 2014 – 15th March 2015) – V&A (Bridal Fashions) London

Satin Wedding dress V and A London

Satin wedding dress by Catherine Rayner, 1996. Photographer Nik Hartley © Victoria and Albert Museum, London


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February 2015 – Time For A Refresh with Fashion and Food

Here we are in February. Are you feeling a little deflated because you didn’t achieve enough in January or your resolutions were not so resolute?

I think it’s time to get out and get inspired. Whether you love art and fashion, whether you’ve never been to an exhibit before or you’re an avid member; there is a lot to see. I’ve selected some great art and fashion exhibitions it will be worth seeing in February and some food ideas too (because seeing exhibitions makes me hungry!).

NYC

If you’re in NYC go to The Brooklyn Museum for the Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe (September 10, 2014–February 15, 2015). Why not make a day of it and have brunch, see some other sites and then have a delicious dinner (a great day out on Sat 14th Feb!). I fancy trying Piquant for brunch and then take a 20 minute stroll to the Brooklyn Museum.

You could then pay a visit to the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens or Prospect Park Zoo. Once you have built up an appetite I would then take a walk back up through the park to Franny’s. Enjoy a relaxing lunch or dinner of seasonal Italian food in Franny’s no frills paired back space.

London

If you fancy going to the Rubens and Legacy: Van Dyck to Cezanne at the Royal Academy (24th January – 10th April 2015) you will need to buy a ticket. Once I’ve been to see an exhibition at the Royal Academy I like to head out onto Piccadilly. Depending on what I fancy I’ll either go to Waterstones (On Piccadilly) where they have an excellent cafe on the top floor,


for an afternoon tea I like Fortnum and Masons or for a high end dinner with friends I’ll book a table at a Hotel Cafe Royal.

If you want to take the kids to a free exhibition try the Grayson Perry: Who are you? at the National Portrait Gallery (25th October 2014-15th March 2015). You search out the Grayson Perry pieces that are dotted around and look at the other great portraits in between. I like the sound of the National Portrait ‘Portrait’ restaurant on the third floor. But if you are looking for something a little bit more low key with the kids I’d take a walk over to the Jamies Italian at Piccadilly Circus.

Or maybe head to an exhibition in Paris:
Enlightenment: Carte Blanche of Christian Lacroix – Le Musee Cognacq-Jay (till 19th April 2015) Museum of the Eighteenth Century